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physics.ao-ph2020
Dissipative models of swell propagation across the Pacific
Camille R. Zaug, John D. Carter
Ocean swell plays an important role in the transport of energy across the ocean, yet its evolution is still not well understood. In the late 1960s, the nonlinear Schr{ö}dinger (NLS…
physics.ao-ph2010★ 6 cited
Fully nonlinear weakly dispersive modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup
P. Bonneton, E. Barthelemy, J. D. Carter +5
To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability o…