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physics.ao-ph2010★ 6 cited
Fully nonlinear weakly dispersive modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup
P. Bonneton, E. Barthelemy, J. D. Carter +5
To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability o…
physics.ao-ph2007
Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for ocean wave propagation
David Lannes, Philippe Bonneton
A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equati…