Coastal wave refraction in variable currents over a varying bathymetry

Abstract

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and slowly varying bathymetry, we derive an analytical approximation to the wave ray curvature, which is validated by an open-source ray tracing framework. The approximation has the form of linear superposition of a current- and depth-induced component, each depending on the gradients in the ambient fields. This separation enables quantification of their individual and combined contributions to refraction. Through analysis of a few limiting cases, we demonstrate how the sign and magnitude of these components influence the wave refraction, and identify conditions where they either amplify or counteract each other. We also identify which of the two plays a dominant role. These findings provide physically resolved insights into the influence of current- and depth-gradients on wave propagation, and are relevant for applications related to remote sensing and coastal wave forecasting services.

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Cited by in corpus (2)

• Energetics and Stochastics of Extreme Waves Breaking over a Symmetrical Breakwater
• Shoaling of Finite-Amplitude Rogue Waves