Modeling the Propagation, Breaking and Drift of Ocean Surface Wave
arXiv:1304.1463
Abstract
A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels faster; (2) The wave breaks when the front angle is bigger than 46.3 degree; (3) The magnitude of the wave drift should be smaller than that of the known Stokes drift.
34 pages, 10 figures